Waterfalls

The rocks were the size of apples first. As we got higher they became the size of potatoes. They got bigger and bigger. Twice the rear wheel of the motorcycle lost traction and slipped and Tata and my feet raced down to prevent a fall. But the views were stunning. Behind us was the straight separating Mindanao from Camiguin Island. To the left was the cinder cone of Mt. Mambajao, we were climbing Mt. Timpoong, and a treeless older volcano was to the right. Above us clouds would come and engulf, curl, or slide down the cinder cones. Every now and then the white baby blue blue beaches wrapping small Mantique Island would flash out. We were mountain climbing with a 125cc motor.

I'd get off and walk and let Tata, my driver, go up a steep cliff, we'd drive together for another minute, and separate again until he wouldn't take his bike anymore. And then we walked. My 25 cent hotel map was bad. Real bad. It showed the falls being behind us, but we hadn't even crossed a river. We could hear water streaming below us though. We walked up a path for ten minutes before abandoning it, assuming it was only a path to the top of the mountain. Later I found it began an hour hike going to our cloud-forest falls. He knew another waterfall so we went there.

The road was easier getting there, the hike scarier. At one point the trail drops about 20 feet. The trekker holds on to a metal pipe running away from the cliff while using stones to descend. Boulder hopping across the river was also a bit tricker than I'm used to and at least twice my right foot landed in the water. Two local children acted as our tour guides, taking us through the trail to the falls.

Tomorrow: Cock fighting.

Tuawasan Falls


Tuawasan Falls


The 70m Katibawasan Falls

Bantayan to Camiguin

I left Bantayan after two days. I'll confess it had the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen, but the reefs were all blown up. Dynamite fishing is a national specialty. Reefs grow back, right? So KABOOOOM! They also like cyanide fishing. It temporarily paralyzes the fish so they can catch it alive. It has the minor side affect of killing the coral. Snorkeling is one of my favorite leisurely activities and it was very disheartening to boat out to the "best" spot in the area and find that 80% of the reef life was bleached out and any fish over 2 inches was already on someone's lunch plate. There was also the lack of other tourist our age [with two notable exceptions] and an underlying creepiness to the "Old Man's Paradise" you encounter going into town for meals or drinks. It was also very, very annoying having tricycle drivers pester and follow you every time we left the resort. That they somehow remembered our names and would call out for us when we approached was bad, that they were calling me Hera was worse.

My plan was to go to a nearby small island after Hera went back home. Malapascua was supposed to have great snorkeling but my instincts told me to get out of the area. Things couldn't be too different 30 miles away, though the inaccessibility of the island made it appealing. No ferries, no paved roads, and one diesel generator powering the entire island.

So I gambled, spent a bit more cash than I wanted, and took a very small turboprop to a small island with seven volcanoes perched off the troubled island of Mindanao. Camiguin might be the most beautiful and enchanting place I've ever been.

Most of the Philippines has an odd vibe about it. I can't put my finger on it, but it's neither welcoming nor hostile. You're a walking dollar bill and, excepting Hera's hometown, that sums up my contact with most Filipino's thus far. There's none of the curiosity that accompanies that like in China. Filipino's know Americans a little too well.

Camiguin is much different. In my short five hours here I've been astounded by the general kindness around me. My guesthouse picked me up at the airport, I got picked up and dropped off for free by a private bus and I don't know why, I spent 30 minutes chatting with a young family running a souvenir stand while waiting for a Jeepney [picture at the bottom], I made fast friends with the people on the Jeepney who helped me find the lone ATM in town. People smile here. I haven't seen a lot of smiling since Thailand. Kids waved at me from the side of road as I passed by in the Jeepney. Even motorcyclist were waving at me as they passed by [and no, not a "get out of the way!!" wave]. Even the heavily armed bank guards seemed honored to be able to tell me that my Chinese debit card won't work on this small piece of paradise.

Here are some photos. Most are from a church destroyed by an earthquake 150+ years ago. There's also an underwater graveyard that slid into the ocean at the same time that I plan to snorkel over tomorrow.