I pointed at the single ketchup packet and made the best internationaly recognized sign for "more?" that I could. I was graced with another packet, which in absolute terms was double what was originally offered. In relative terms, I miss dousing ketchup and tabasco on everything that touched my plate.
I had given up. I was at McDonald's ordering a special FIFA World Cup sponsered Big Mac. I had played native as best I could, disappearing into a small alleyway near the gates of my neighborhood that was crambed with small "resteraunts," namely kabob stands. I had kabob for dinner yesterday so I was looking for something different.
There were two women with some kind of cornbread biscuits, grilled peppers, and some sort of white meat. I asked for one and after some miscommunication with a woman who had perhaps the highest pitched voice I'd ever heard, I was delivered a greasy pseudo-sandwich for 1.5 yaun (that's 19 cents, folks). I sat on a corner and ate it for a minute or two with some "sweat water" ("sweet water" is what they meant, misspellings and odd english phrasings are everywhere). My first bite delivered news that this wasn't chicken. It wasn't even cooked much whatever it was. I took a second bite. Grease dripped down my hands. I was now covered in the juices of whatever I was eating. On my third bite I established that it was neither chicken nor pork... I spent a moment collecting my thoughts... what the hell was this?
I threw it away and walked down the street to the "California Beef Noodle King U.S.A." and walked right back out after noticing no pictures on the menu over the counter. I walked across to McDonald's. I struggled opening the door because I hate McDonald's and everything it stands for. I never eat it at home. And besides, how stereotypical was it for the chubby American to forego the local food for the pre-packaged crap at McDonald's. The place was packed... they were there too, they had no right to judge.
20 yaun ($2.50) later I had my Big Mac. Curiosly, McDonald's had the best looking crowd of everywhere I'd been... perhaps because it was twenty times more expensive than street food. The customers were almost all my age, all had on make-up and were dressed the most accurately Western of anyone else I'd seen in Tianjin - well, except for maybe the outdoor karaoke queens that fill the main street with their voices every evening outside "BuyAll," the hybrid four story Best Buy/Hamfest.
Recommended reading: Jihad vs. McWorld. China has chosen McWorld.
